My sister, Maddie, recently whisked me away on an unforgettable journey to Italy, specifically the breathtaking Amalfi Coast, and I couldn’t wait to share every cherished moment and highly recommended spot with you. It’s quite amusing, as I’m usually the meticulous planner for all our travels. Typically, my husband Bridger just needs to pack a bag and bring a great attitude, and I’ll have every detail meticulously arranged, including a curated list of dining experiences (naturally). But this time, the roles were gloriously reversed.
Maddie, a seasoned traveler to the Amalfi Coast with about five visits under her belt, possesses an intimate knowledge of its hidden gems and most spectacular offerings. Much like our previous sister adventure to Bali in 2019 (you can find our comprehensive itinerary here), she expertly crafted a “highlight reel” trip for me, curating her absolute favorites. I can unequivocally confirm: it was nothing short of a HIGHLIGHT. This trip offered a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration, all within the stunning backdrop of Southern Italy’s iconic coastline.
Our Italian escape unfolded during the first week of August, undeniably the peak of tourist season. As a first-timer to Italy, I hadn’t experienced it during quieter periods, so I arrived without preconceptions. Honestly, the crowds were surprisingly manageable and never once detracted from our enjoyment. However, for anyone planning a visit during the bustling summer months of July or August, heed this crucial advice: book absolutely everything months in advance. Securing reservations for restaurants, exclusive beach clubs, and desirable hotels becomes a competitive sport, with many establishments fully booked far in advance. For instance, Maddie proactively booked our spot at the renowned La Fontelina back in May, just on the possibility that our trip would materialize. The weather was typically hot and a tad humid, but nothing a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear Mediterranean couldn’t instantly remedy. The only minor discomfort was our travel day upon arrival, enduring the heat in airplane attire – a quick change into shorts and a tank top in your carry-on upon landing is a smart move!
Our journey spanned nine days, including our travel to and from Italy, yet it felt as though we experienced an incredible amount in that time. I can assure you, a week is more than sufficient to truly immerse yourself in the Italian experience and create a lifetime of memories. Our itinerary was thoughtfully structured: four nights soaking in the charm of Capri, two nights exploring the historic beauty of Amalfi, and a magical final night in the picturesque Positano. And if a sister trip isn’t already on your radar, allow me to enthusiastically recommend: DO IT! These shared experiences are truly priceless.
Where to Fly Into and Transportation on the Amalfi Coast
Our adventure began with our flight into Naples International Airport (NAP). Upon clearing baggage claim, we were met by a representative from the private transportation company our first hotel had arranged. This seamless service immediately set a relaxed tone for our trip. They efficiently handled our luggage, escorted us to a waiting private car, and drove us directly to the port where our ferry to Capri awaited. At the port, another member of the same company was there to greet us, hand over our pre-booked ferry tickets, and guide us swiftly to our departing vessel. The scenic ferry ride to Capri lasted approximately one hour. Upon docking, yet another company representative was on hand, ready to transfer our luggage to a car that would take us directly to our hotel. The total cost for this comprehensive private transfer from Naples Airport to our Capri hotel was a very reasonable 160 Euros. I cannot stress enough how highly I recommend this service; it completely eliminated the stress of navigating unfamiliar public transport, ensuring both safety and convenience right from the start of our Italian escapade.
For those seeking alternative travel options, flying into Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is another viable choice, particularly if you’re traveling from the U.S. Rome typically offers a wider selection of flights and more competitive pricing, depending on your origin. From Rome, you can take a high-speed train to Naples, a journey lasting roughly 1 hour and 10 minutes. Upon arrival in Naples, you can then hire another private car (a highly recommended option for comfort and ease) or take a taxi to the port, followed by the ferry to Capri. Our hotel also offered a full private transfer service directly from Rome Airport, though this involves an additional 2.5-hour drive beyond the train journey.
Where to Stay on Capri: Luxury Escapes and Boutique Charms
Caesar Augustus: A Panoramic Paradise in Anacapri
This exquisite hotel was our chosen sanctuary on Capri, and I wholeheartedly endorse it. Caesar Augustus is an absolutely stunning property, strategically located in Anacapri, just outside the bustling main square of Capri town. It exudes a charming boutique family atmosphere; you might even be greeted by the owner’s son, who resides at the hotel. Perched majestically 300 meters above sea level, the hotel boasts unparalleled, sweeping views of the entire Bay of Naples and the magnificent Amalfi Coast. Its infinity pool seems to merge seamlessly with the ocean horizon, offering an idyllic spot for relaxation. The hotel’s restaurant prides itself on serving dishes crafted from fresh ingredients grown in its very own on-site garden, which guests are welcome to visit. Breakfast is a lavish affair, served in a dedicated restaurant room, featuring an incredible (and included) buffet with every culinary delight imaginable. Beyond the culinary offerings, amenities include a well-equipped gym, a serene spa, dedicated concierge service, and a breathtaking double-level infinity pool. This is arguably the BEST place on Capri to witness a truly spectacular sunset. The vistas are, quite frankly, unbeatable! Even if you’re not a guest, I highly recommend visiting for sunset one evening to experience its magic. And whatever you do, order the peach bellini – it’s genuinely the best I have ever tasted in my life. Explore their beauty further on their Instagram page.
Other Highly Recommended Hotels in Capri:
Quisisana: A beacon of five-star luxury, located directly in the heart of Capri, mere steps from the vibrant Piazzetta. Quisisana offers impeccable service, world-class amenities, and stunning views of the iconic Faraglioni rock formations, quintessential Capri!
Capri Tiberio Palace: For those who appreciate contemporary design and elegance, this stylish hotel is nestled conveniently in the bustling center of Capri, offering both luxury and accessibility.
La Minerva: Often lauded as the best boutique hotel on the island, La Minerva promises an intimate and personalized experience, combining charming decor with attentive service.
Punta Tragara: If breathtaking vistas are your top priority, Punta Tragara offers arguably the best overall views on Capri, ensuring every moment is framed by spectacular scenery.
Capri Palace Jumeirah: Situated in Anacapri, this hotel epitomizes five-star luxury, providing an opulent and serene retreat away from the main town, complete with exquisite service and facilities.
Where to Eat on Capri: A Culinary Journey
Da Paolino: The Iconic Lemon Tree Restaurant
Often referred to as “The Lemon Tree Restaurant,” Da Paolino is an absolute must-visit for its unique ambiance and exquisite cuisine. Dining under a canopy of fragrant lemon trees is an experience in itself. Here, you absolutely MUST order the lemon pasta, a Capri specialty, and indulge in the refreshing lemon sorbet, charmingly served inside a hollowed-out lemon. It’s a delightful sensory experience that perfectly captures the essence of Capri.
La Fontelina: Capri’s Quintessential Beach Club Lunch
La Fontelina stands as the quintessential lunch spot on Capri, renowned for its stunning setting overlooking the Faraglioni rocks. Be sure to try their invigorating caffé shakerato, the delicate zucchini pasta, and any of their freshly grilled fish. A critical tip: reservations are required far in advance, and they typically mandate a minimum 3-day commitment during peak season. While it’s a commitment, the unparalleled views and vibrant atmosphere make it absolutely worth it for a truly iconic Capri experience.
La Terrazza: Garden-to-Table Dining at Caesar Augustus
Located within the magnificent Caesar Augustus hotel, La Terrazza offers a dining experience centered around fresh, locally sourced ingredients, many of which are harvested from the hotel’s own garden. Maddie raved about her vegetarian tasting menu during her last visit, highlighting the freshness and innovative preparations. It’s a perfect choice for an elegant dinner with spectacular views.
Da Giorgio: Authentic Family-Style Italian
Situated conveniently in the center of Capri, Da Giorgio provides a more casual, family-style Italian dining experience. It’s a fantastic option for a relaxed meal where you can enjoy classic dishes in a warm and welcoming environment.
Il Riccio: Seafood & Sweet Temptations in Anacapri
This chic beach club and seafood restaurant is located in Anacapri, dramatically perched just below the exclusive Dior Bar. Open for both lunch and dinner, Il Riccio is famous for its fresh seafood and, uniquely, its “Temptation Room” – essentially a dessert paradise where you can select five mini desserts for a small additional cost. Bring your swimsuit, as you can easily jump into the ocean directly below the restaurant. Beach chairs are also available for rent. The only challenging aspect is securing a taxi for the return journey, as its secluded location means fewer taxis are readily available. You’ll likely need to arrange a taxi through the restaurant or your hotel concierge, and be prepared for higher fares.
What to Do on Capri: Experiences Not to Miss
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Spend a Day at La Fontelina: If your visit to Capri aligns with peak season, booking your spot at La Fontelina far in advance is absolutely essential. The restaurant typically requires a 3-day commitment for reservations, and you can also request beach chair reservations simultaneously. Do note: if you fail to show for any day of your commitment, your credit card will be charged. Book directly via their website, or if you’re staying at a luxury hotel, your concierge might be able to work some magic for a last-minute booking, though this is rare. The setting is utterly stunning, and it comes with my highest recommendation! Maddie and I, eager to make the most of our days, arrived promptly at 9 am each morning as soon as it opened (something not many others did, but highly recommended for prime spots!). We usually stayed until 2-3 pm, savoring every moment. To get there from our hotel, Caesar Augustus, we took a taxi into Capri town, then enjoyed a picturesque 30-minute walk through the charming town before descending a long path to the water’s edge where La Fontelina is nestled. The trek back up can be demanding, so remember to stay hydrated (I even brought my electrolytes!). Alternatively, you can arrange a boat taxi from La Fontelina to the main port, and then a car taxi back to your hotel for an easier ascent. As a delightful reward for conquering the uphill walk, treat yourself to gelato at Gelateria Buonocore – it’s the BEST, and they offer refreshing sorbet too! Another excellent option is a granita from Chiosco Tizzano di Natalia e Antonio Tizza.
- Explore the Piazzetta: No visit to Capri is complete without immersing yourself in the lively atmosphere of the Piazzetta, the main square and vibrant heart of Capri. Find a spot at one of the charming outdoor restaurants and indulge in a classic Aperol Spritz while enjoying the quintessential Italian pastime of people-watching. Afterward, stroll along the rows of high-end designer boutiques for some luxurious window shopping, or perhaps treat yourself to some tax-free luxury goods. Many renowned designer brands create exclusive products specifically for Capri, meaning you won’t find them anywhere else in the world, making for a truly unique souvenir.
- Evening Cocktails: For an elegant evening, head to the Quisi Bar at Quisisana for sophisticated aperitivo cocktails, offering another prime spot for people-watching in a refined setting.
- Boat Ride Around the Island / See the Grottos: Regrettably, we didn’t have enough time for this during our trip, but I’ve added it to my list for my next visit! A boat tour around Capri offers breathtaking perspectives of the dramatic coastline, hidden coves, and, of course, the famous Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), a magical sea cave illuminated by an ethereal blue light.
One important consideration for Capri is the cost of taxis. We quickly realized that we spent a significant portion of our budget on taxi fares to and from town. Individual taxi rides can range anywhere from 20 to 40 Euros each, so factor this into your daily expenses or explore hotel shuttle options where available.
For more visual inspiration, be sure to watch my Instagram Highlights from Capri HERE.
Transfer to Amalfi: A Scenic Journey
Our initial plan was to take the public ferry from Capri to Amalfi. However, given my propensity for seasickness, we decided to explore alternative, more comfortable options. We ultimately splurged on a private boat transfer through Capri Boat Tours, which proved to be an absolute highlight of our trip. As an added bonus, we requested a delightful 15-minute swim stop in the iconic waters off Positano along the way. While certainly a more expensive option, the experience was truly memorable, allowing us to arrive at our next hotel directly at its private dock. The entire journey, including our refreshing swim break, took approximately an hour and a half, and I’m pleased to report, absolutely no seasickness!
Where to Stay in Amalfi: Coastal Grandeur
Hotel Santa Caterina: An Iconic Seaside Retreat
While each of the three hotels we stayed in during our trip was iconic in its own right, Hotel Santa Caterina in Amalfi held a truly special place in my heart. It’s challenging to pick a definitive favorite, but this one resonated deeply. I absolutely adored its direct waterfront location, complete with a convenient elevator that swiftly transports you down to the restaurant, the oceanfront pool area, and the well-equipped gym. The service, much like at our other accommodations, was beyond exceptional, anticipating every need. The food was consistently amazing, showcasing fresh regional flavors. Furthermore, its location, just a quick 5-minute drive into the charming town of Amalfi, offered the perfect balance of serene seclusion and easy access. I genuinely loved this hotel and would return in a heartbeat – it’s an absolute MUST for your travel bucket list. Surprisingly, I found myself enjoying staying in Amalfi more than Positano. While Positano is undeniably beautiful and a breathtaking sight, Amalfi, I felt, offered a richer array of activities and a more authentic Italian coastal town experience. Discover more about this magnificent hotel on their Instagram.
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Where to Eat in Amalfi: Delightful Coastal Flavors
De Gemma: A Charming Town Center Eatery
Maddie and I thoroughly enjoyed our dinner at De Gemma, located right in the heart of Amalfi town. We arrived just as they opened, around 7 pm, which meant we didn’t need a reservation and secured a fantastic table overlooking the charming cobblestone pathway below. Every dish we ordered was absolutely delicious, from classic pasta to fresh seafood, making for a memorable evening in a lively atmosphere.
Al Mare at Hotel Santa Caterina: Exceptional Hotel Dining
Dining at Al Mare, the restaurant at our Hotel Santa Caterina, was nothing short of phenomenal. We found ourselves returning multiple times, captivated by the fresh flavors and accommodating service. The Greek salad, often customized with grilled chicken for that extra protein boost, was a recurrent favorite, as were their perfectly crafted Margherita pizza and various pasta dishes. You could genuinely taste the freshness of all the ingredients, a testament to the quality of local produce. The staff were always willing to modify dishes to our preferences, making each meal a truly personalized and delightful experience.
What to Do in Amalfi: Exploring History and Charm
- Indulge in Lemon Sorbet: A quintessential Amalfi experience involves savoring a refreshing lemon sorbet, traditionally served within a hollowed-out lemon. It’s the perfect sweet and tart treat to enjoy as you wander through the town.
- Visit the Amalfi Cathedral: You simply cannot miss the magnificent Duomo di Sant’Andrea, or Amalfi Cathedral, which dominates the main square of the town. This stunning architectural masterpiece, with its impressive façade and intricate details, is a testament to Amalfi’s rich history and a must-see for any visitor.
- Shop on Ruga Nova Mercatorum: Just beyond the cathedral lies Ruga Nova Mercatorum, a bustling street lined with a plethora of charming shops and cozy cafes. It’s a delightful area for a leisurely stroll, where you can browse local crafts, limoncello, ceramics, and perhaps find a unique souvenir to remember your trip.
For a deeper dive into our Amalfi experiences, check out my Instagram Highlights of Amalfi HERE.
Transfer to Positano: The Grand Finale
For our final leg, we arranged a private driver through Hotel Santa Caterina to transport us to Le Sirenuse in Positano. The scenic drive, winding along the dramatic coastal roads, took approximately 35-40 minutes, offering breathtaking glimpses of the iconic cliffside villages.
Where to Stay in Positano: Unrivaled Luxury
Le Sirenuse: The Quintessential Positano Dream
Pronounced “Lay Seerehnusay,” Le Sirenuse is nothing short of an iconic hotel, a true emblem of Positano luxury. Yes, it was a significant splurge, but it had been on my bucket list for years, and I am incredibly happy we made the decision to stay here, even if only for one night. I genuinely wish our stay could have been longer, but regardless, it was an immensely memorable experience, and I am already dreaming of a return visit! The service was truly beyond compare, anticipating our every need with grace and efficiency. Our room was magnificent, boasting a gorgeous, postcard-perfect view of Positano’s cascading homes and the azure sea. The pool area had an incredible vibe, perfect for relaxation (a tip: secure your lounge chairs early!). The food, from lunch by the pool to breakfast, was consistently amazing. As a bonus for coffee lovers, they even know how to make excellent iced lattes. We ventured out only once from the hotel to stroll down to the waterfront and dine at Chez Black; otherwise, we cherished every moment soaking in the luxurious ambiance of Le Sirenuse. The hotel also features a well-appointed gym and a luxurious spa, complete with a cold plunge, salt room, steam room, and sauna – perfect for rejuvenation. The breakfast room, with its lavish spread and stunning views, was out of this world; it was literally something out of my dreams. Our afternoon spent by the pool was deeply relaxing; they even had a charming lemon sorbet cart making rounds, offering everyone a refreshing treat. I truly wish we had enjoyed two more nights at Le Sirenuse to fully absorb its magic. Explore more of its splendor on their Instagram.
Other Top-Tier Accommodations in Positano:
Villa Boheme: A charming and stylish option offering a more intimate boutique experience.
Il San Pietro di Positano: Another legendary luxury hotel, known for its breathtaking cliffside setting, Michelin-starred dining, and private beach access.
Villa Tre Ville: An exclusive and opulent retreat, composed of multiple villas, offering privacy, unparalleled views, and personalized service.
Where to Eat in Positano: A Feast for the Senses
Pool Restaurant at Le Sirenuse: A Culinary Oasis
If you’re fortunate enough to be staying at Le Sirenuse, dining at their Pool Restaurant for lunch is an absolute must. The food was incredible, matching the stunning ambiance. While I’m unsure if non-guests can secure reservations, if you can, definitely seize the opportunity for a memorable midday meal with an iconic view.
Chez Black: Positano’s Beloved Family Institution
Chez Black is a long-standing Positano institution, famed for its incredibly extensive menu and truly delicious food. This family-run establishment has been a favorite of Maddie’s for years, and it’s easy to see why. I guarantee that everyone in your travel party will find something to love among its vast offerings, from fresh seafood to classic Italian dishes. It’s an exceptionally popular spot, so securing a reservation well in advance is highly recommended.
La Sponda: The Michelin-starred restaurant at Le Sirenuse, offering an unforgettable fine dining experience under a canopy of 400 candles and breathtaking views.
Ada’s Oyster Bar: A hidden gem for seafood lovers, specializing in fresh oysters and other delectable raw bar selections.
Aldo’s Cocktail Bar at Le Sirenuse: For an exquisite evening, head to Aldo’s for pre-dinner drinks and light appetizers during sunset. The views are unparalleled, and the cocktails are expertly crafted, creating a truly magical atmosphere.
What to Do in Positano: Iconic Experiences and Hidden Charms
- Rent a Boat for the Day: One of the most quintessential Positano experiences is renting a boat for a day to explore the magnificent Amalfi Coast or even venture out to Capri. Maddie highly recommends using Luccibello boat tours for their excellent service and local knowledge. Be sure to ask your captain to take you to the special swimming spot in Positano, located just to the right of the main city when viewed from the sea. It was absolutely magical when Maddie and I swam there during our private transfer from Capri to Amalfi (and it’s where she had her hilarious diving mishap!).
- Enjoy Gelato and Beachside Strolls: Grab a delicious gelato and take a leisurely walk along the main beach of Positano. Fair warning, this area can be very touristy, and locals prefer you not to take photos of the iconic colorful umbrellas in the morning, as they are preparing for the day.
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Rent Lounge Chairs at the Beach: For a classic Positano experience, rent a lounge chair at the main beach. Here, you can soak up the sun, take a refreshing swim in the Mediterranean, and enjoy the iconic backdrop of Positano’s pastel-colored cliffside houses rising dramatically from the sea. It’s the perfect spot for relaxation and capturing those postcard-worthy photos.
For more glimpses into our time in this stunning town, explore my Instagram Highlights for Positano HERE.
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Our 7-Night Amalfi Coast Itinerary: A Detailed Plan
Day 1: ARRIVAL TO CAPRI
- Hotel: Caesar Augustus
- Late Lunch: 3:00 PM at Il Riccio/Dior Bar, enjoying fresh seafood and the vibrant atmosphere.
- Evening: Sunset cocktails on the hotel terrace, savoring panoramic views.
- Dinner: 8:00 PM at La Terrazza di Lucullo, indulging in garden-fresh cuisine.
Day 2: CAPRI EXPLORATION
- Hotel: Caesar Augustus
- Daytime: Immerse yourself in the iconic beauty of La Fontelina beach club.
- Lunch: 1:00 PM at La Fontelina, enjoying a delightful meal by the sea.
- Dinner: 8:00 PM at Da Giorgio for classic, family-style Italian dining in the heart of Capri.
Day 3: CAPRI LEISURE
- Hotel: Caesar Augustus
- Daytime: Another blissful day relaxing at La Fontelina, swimming and sunbathing.
- Lunch: 1:00 PM at La Fontelina.
- Dinner: 8:00 PM at Da Paolino, the renowned Lemon Tree Restaurant, for a truly unique dining experience.
Day 4: CAPRI HIGHLIGHTS
- Hotel: Caesar Augustus
- Daytime: Final morning enjoying the vibrant scene at La Fontelina.
- Lunch: 1:00 PM at La Fontelina.
- Dinner: 7:30 PM at Il Riccio, indulging in fresh seafood with a “temptation room” dessert experience.
Day 5: DEPART CAPRI > ARRIVAL IN AMALFI
- Morning Transfer: 9:00 AM private boat transfer with Capri Boat Tours, including a refreshing swim stop in Positano.
- Hotel: Hotel Santa Caterina
- Daytime: Relax and unwind at the hotel beach or pool area.
- Lunch: At the hotel’s beach restaurant, Al Mare, enjoying fresh coastal cuisine.
- Dinner: At De Gemma in Amalfi town, experiencing local flavors in a charming setting.
Day 6: AMALFI EXPLORATION
- Hotel: Hotel Santa Caterina
- Daytime: Continue to enjoy the luxurious amenities of the hotel beach and pool.
- Lunch: At the hotel’s beach restaurant, Al Mare.
- Late Afternoon: Venture into Amalfi town for some souvenir shopping, sightseeing, and a refreshing gelato or lemon sorbet.
- Dinner: An exquisite meal at Al Mare, savoring the hotel’s exceptional cuisine.
Day 7: POSITANO LUXURY
- Morning Transfer: Private car transfer from Amalfi to Positano.
- Hotel: Le Sirenuse
- Daytime: Indulge in relaxation at the iconic Le Sirenuse hotel pool and enjoy a luxurious lunch at their poolside restaurant.
- Sunset: 7:00 PM for aperitivo and breathtaking views at Aldo’s Cocktail Bar.
- Dinner: 8:00 PM at Chez Black, a beloved Positano institution known for its extensive menu and lively atmosphere.
I hope this comprehensive guide inspires your next Italian adventure! If you have any questions about planning your unforgettable sister trip to the Amalfi Coast, please don’t hesitate to ask in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to help you out. Happy travels! xx Rachael